>>LEOPARD FORUM<<

THE WHOLE AIM I HAVE FOR THIS CLASS IS TO MAKE IT "USER FREINDLY" FOR THE KARTER....
Remo Luciani

Check back regularly for new Frequently Asked Questions

If you still require help after reading the FAQ's below, please feel free contact me directly by email HERE or call me on 0418 340640, I will be happy to help you. We also have a FORUM which drivers can use to help each other out.

A must read for every Leopard Engine Owner:
Most questions can be answered by reading the "OWNERS MANUAL" on the DOWNLOAD page, this is highly recommended.

Spare Parts Retail Price List
This can be downloaded from the DOWNLOAD page on this website.

What are the Technical Specifications of the Leopard Engine?
Description:  IAME Parilla Leopard single cylinder, two-stroke, water cooled reed-valve engine with electronic ignition, axle-driven water pump, dry automatic centrifugal clutch, generator and electric starter.
Bore 54.00mm
Stroke 54.00mm
Capacity 123.67cc
Power (max) Restricted 18hp (14kw)
Power (max) Un-restricted 27hp (20kw)
Lubrication Oil-in-fuel, 6% (16:1)
Induction Reed Valve
Carburettor Tillotson diaphragm-type
Cooling Water
Ignition Digital, with integrated rev limiter
Battery charge Integrated generator (the only 125 engine in the world with a battery that charges whilst you race)
Electric start 12v / 0.30Kw
Clutch Automatic, dry centrifugal-type
COMPLETE KIT INCLUDES: Engine, radiator, battery, airbox etc, ALL CONNECTIONS and HARDWARE Ready to bolt on and go racing!

Leopard engines and spare parts are available from ALL reputable kart retailers Australia-wide. If they don’t have it in stock, get them to give Remo Racing a call!

Do we run a restricted leopard125cc class?
If there are not enough competitors for that class what do you do?
If you run them combined with the clubman class how did you come to that decision?
Firstly, Remo Racing do not run a restricted 125cc class, my Leopard Class Rules are made by the AKA, I cannot and do not make up these rules.

I have a Leopard Series running in 6 states in Australia in which I have rules for the series itself only but the actual Leopard Class Rules are as per AKA rule book click this link below.
http://www.karting.net.au/rules/2008%20AKA%20MANUAL/Chp45%20Parilla%20Leopard%20125cc.%2008.pdf

What does it mean if my engine has a number 1, 2 or 3 stamped on the front of the crankcase near the reed block?
There are 3 assembly lines in the IAME factory, line 1, 2 and 3. Depending on which assembly line assembles the engines they will stamp the number of which assembly line the engine was assembled. This way, if there is a constant problem with say an engine which has 1 stamped on it, they will check that assembly line for quality of assembly tools such as torque wrenches etc;

Does this mean that assembly line 1 may build a better engine than say assembly line 2?
No. Because all 3 assembly lines pull out of the same crate of cylinders and crankcases etc; so, the engines are already pre-machined and finished before the assembly line assembles them.

I have an old Leopard engine which I bought in 2001. Is it still competitive today?
Yes. The engines have not changed in port timing and cylinder specifications since their inception into Australia. The tight tolerances that the AKA have set on the Leopard engines cannot vary more than .1 of a mm. This is the tightest regulation in any AKA homologated engine.  So your 2001 engine has the same port timings and cylinder specs as the 2008 engine.

What oil should I use for running-in my Leopard?
Through thorough testing IAME highly recommends Shell Super M caster based oil as this is best for bedding in piston and rings.

Can I continue to use Shell M after running-in my Leopard?
Shell M can be continued to be used after run-in period. This is very high quality oil and highly recommended. You must however remember to constantly check your ‘cc’ as caster based oils tend to build up carbon and you will be illegal if you use Shell M for a long period of time without cleaning the combustion chamber.

What if I don’t want to use Shell M because I don’t want to pull the engine down constantly to clean the carbon?  Is there an alternative high quality oil that does not build up carbon?
Yes. After the run-in period, we highly recommend Motul Kart Grand Prix 100% synthetic oil. This does not build up carbon and is rated over 20,000rpm.

I’ve had problems with my main bearings not lasting for long periods, why?
It has been PROVEN that there are a lot of factors that come into this. One of the main factors to this failure is the poor quality engine oil used. If you stick to Shell M or Motul, this will maximize your longer main bearing life. Other things that can contribute are worn-out chains and sprockets or the lack of chain lube, these things cause a harmonic vibration to the main bearings and will contribute to bearing failure.

What type of main bearing is found to be the most reliable at an affordable price?
There is a new SKF bearing 6205ETN9C4 which IAME have done research and development together with the SKF company. This bearing is an 8-ball bearing with a higher load rating and can be purchased from Remo Racing at just $25 per bearing.

I am not good at tuning. What is a good safe carburettor setting?
A good safe setting is: 1 and a quarter on the low jet, and 1 and a bit on the high jet.

What blow-off pressure should I set my carburettor at?
Set it at 10psi, it is a good all-round performance.

I’ve had exhaust nuts fall off several times. What can I do to stop this from happening?
This would generally occur when the exhaust gasket is ‘new’. As you go out for a run, the exhaust gasket will shrink on the first time out (this is normal for any gasket). Run a 10mm ring spanner around the 3 exhaust nuts for the first 3 or 4 runs until you cannot turn the exhaust nuts any more. You will have no trouble from then on.  I highly recommend getting a cheap 10mm ring spanner and grind it ‘thin’ so it fits between the exhaust nut and the header. By using a ring spanner it enables you to ensure the exhaust nut is done up tight without rounding off the exhaust nuts.

I cracked my exhaust header a few times. Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?
Yes. We have a new header which has been AKA approved. It has 3 braces fitted from the IAME factory. They are proven to be very reliable. The other thing is to use “genuine IAME flex” as this flex absorbs vibration and does not crack headers. (If you use solid pieces of exhaust tubing this hammers the header and they will break).

Do I have to use the solid steel plate that is supplied with my Leopard that fits between my engine and the engine mount?
Yes, absolutely. This is to be fitted at all times as this steel plate absorbs vibration and prolongs the life of the engine and starter motor brushes.

What do I need to do to maintain my clutch in good working order?
Firstly, keep the clutch bearing always lubricated with a ‘smear’ of high quality bearing grease. Be careful not to put ‘too much’ grease on the bearing as this will throw off and go inside the clutch and cause your clutch to slip. This is simple to do using a piston stop tool to undo the sprocket nut. The clutch has 2 washes on either side of the sprocket drum, be sure to remove the washer carefully and take note ‘which way’ the washer came off, as there is an inner and outer side to the washer, and replace them in the correct way.

Can I sit on the grid with my engine running and the clutch idling?
Yes you can but it is not recommended. This is because it builds up heat and puts stress on the clutch and shortens the life of your clutch. The ideal way is to turn the key and start your engine and drive off immediately ‘without’ accelerating hard on take-off. Same goes for when returning to the grid; switch off the engine on roll down into the in-grid.

My Leopard is fitted with a generator. Do I need to charge my battery?
Yes. The battery will be charging whilst driving but as we only do 5 to 10 laps between practice or racing per time, this is not enough to charge the battery in the colder winter months where you need more cranking power. For the maintenance of your battery, a trinkle charger in between race meetings is recommended to keep your battery maintained for good working order for longer periods of time.

When I purchase a new battery do I need to charge it?
Yes. The batteries can be many months old by the time they are imported and eventually sold, so they will need to be fully charged before use. The ideal recharge is achieved with an average charging current of 0.8 to 1 Amp. (Recharging time of appr.10 hours) and at an ambient temperature between 0° and 40°C. An overcharge or an extremely quick charge with excessive current could ‘damage’ the battery (the battery would tend to swell).  Choose a battery charger with the following characteristics:
Feed Tension: 90/250 Vac – 50/60 Hz.
Outlet Tension: 15 V full charge – 13.8 standby
Max outlet current: 2A full charge

What about Back-up Service?
If you have any queries or questions you can contact me DIRECT  to be sure you get the correct information.  Leopard engine spare parts can be purchased from ANY reputable Kart Shop in Australia.  If your local Kart shop does not carry the engine or the parts, get them to give me a call 0418 340640.